Cuttak Silver Filigree
Silver Metal Crafts
History
Cuttack’s silver filigree craft, known as tarkasi, has a history spanning over 500 years. It flourished under Mughal patronage, with artisans from the Roupyakar community mastering the intricate technique of shaping fine silver threads into lace-like designs. Cuttack became the hub of this delicate craft, with brides wearing filigree toe rings and anklets and Odissi dancers adorning tarkasi jewellery.
Raw Materials and Tools
RAW MATERIALS: Silver (Metal); Aluminum (Metal); Bamboo; Brass (Alloy)
TOOLS: Chisel; Hammer
Process
Silver filigree jewellery begins with melting silver and drawing it into thick and thin wires—thick for the frame, fine for detailing. The frame is shaped, soldered, and refined before polishing. Tribal jewellery, crafted from silver, brass, glass beads, and natural materials, uses traditional casting and smithing. Brass sheet designs are chiseled, punched, and assembled into ornaments, preserving Odisha’s artisanal legacy.
Design and Color
Designs emphasize airy, lace-like structures formed from twisted and coiled silver wires arranged in floral, paisley, and geometric motifs. Negative space is deliberately used to enhance delicacy, while fine granulation adds sparkle. Though inherently silver-toned, selective oxidation introduces soft greys that create depth and contrast. In contemporary practice, filigree is occasionally paired with glass beads or enamel for subtle color accents, yet the signature aesthetic remains a luminous, monochrome elegance that highlights craftsmanship.
Product Range
Silver filigree jewellery comprises earrings, necklaces, bangles, toe rings, and pendants. Nowadays, jewellers also make bags, décor items, and prayer accessories. Tribal jewellery comprises items such as earrings, necklaces, pendants, hair accessories, rings, bangles, and bracelets. Brass sheet jewellery consists mainly of pendants, earrings, and necklaces.