Hyderabad Lac Bangles
Lac and Wax Crafts
History
Hyderabad’s lac bangles have a rich history, dating back 300–350 years to the Qutub Shahi period. Though their exact origin is unclear, they likely emerged when Golconda was famed for its diamond trade. Initially embellished with diamonds, these bangles later featured ornamental stones. Made from lac, a resin secreted by insects, the bangles are handcrafted into traditional and modern designs, showcasing the material’s versatility and the artisans’ skill.
Raw Materials and Tools
Bangle-making uses resin crystals (rozan) as the base, thickened with ghiya pathar powder. Colored lac discs (chapadis) are melted, mixed with color powders, and shaped. Aluminum rings provide structure, varying with bangle thickness. Tools include an iron kadai for melting, pounding stone, wooden rollers, and a hatta for flattening. Cutters trim the lac, and tweezers are used to carefully set decorative stones, completing the intricate process.
Process
The process starts by melting resin crystals (rozan) in an iron kadai over a coal flame. Ghiya pathar powder is stirred in to thicken the mix, which is kneaded and rolled like dough. Colored chapadis are melted and mixed with powders, then applied to a yellow base. The lac is shaped over heat, trimmed, wrapped around aluminum rings, and rolled. Stones are added before reheating and cooling the finished bangle in water.
Design and Color
In Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabadi lac bangles hold deep cultural and social importance, symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. Often included in bridal trousseaus and gifted during festivals, they are cherished as tokens of love and blessings. Traditional motifs include saras (a single line of same-colored stones), louze (two lines), and kabutar ankh (three lines with a central stone). Kanjar features an inverted “V” of multicolored stones, while kulasathpuli centers a colored stone with six white stones around it.
Product Range
Lac craft products include intricately designed bangles, available in various colors, sizes, and styles. These bangles feature decorative elements like stones, patterns, and lac coatings, offering both traditional and contemporary designs.