Applique (Khatwa) Work of Bihar
Embroidery, Bihar, GI, Textile
History
Applique, also known as Khatwa Patchwork, is a beautiful craft that has flourished in the area for centuries. Stitching colorful fabric patches onto base fabrics to create lovely designs, the craft functioned as visual media for storytelling.
Raw Materials and Tools
The primary materials used in khatwa are cotton, silk, and other natural fabrics. Silk threads in various colors are used for embroidery, while natural dyes may be employed to color waste fabric before applique work. Essential tools for khatwa include sharp scissors for precise cutting, needles for embroidery and stitching, tracing tools for sketching designs, and wooden frames or hoops to keep the fabric taut during the process.
Process
Khatwa involves sketching the design on both the base and upper fabric layers. The upper layer is roughly cut, leaving a margin, which is folded and sewn into shape. For two-colored designs, the top layer is cut to reveal the contrasting base fabric. Silk thread embroidery in chain and running stitches enhances the appliqué. Waste fabric, often naturally dyed for vibrant hues, is also used in this intricate craft.
Design and Color
Khatwa features a vibrant color palette, including scarlet, orange, yellow, green, mauve, and white. It combines embroidery and appliqué in items like blouses and caps. Designs range from nuptial scenes to everyday objects like stoves and utensils. Common motifs include human figures, trees, flowers, animals, and birds, with quarter-circles for corners and circular cutwork for central designs. Women typically handle the stitching, while men cut the patterns, especially for kanats (tent walls).
Product Range
It is frequently seen on wall hangings, shamianas (or ornamental tents and canopies used for religious and social ceremonies, as well as on festive occasions), and these days, even on saris, dupattas, tablecloths, curtains, and cushion covers.