Tilla Work
Embroidery
History
Tilla Dozi originated in the Iranian village of Zari and was introduced to Kashmir by the Muslim saint Ameer Kabeer Mir Sayeed Ali Hamadani (R.A.) and 700 artisans. This intricate embroidery gained prominence under the Mughal rulers, symbolizing elegance and nobility. Originally crafted with gold and silver threads, the art later transitioned to copper due to rising costs. Though it has evolved over time, Tilla Dozi continues to reflect its regal heritage and cultural richness.
Raw Materials and Tools
Tilla Dozi involves using trace paper, white and blue inks made from Jhelum River sand and kerosene, and plain fabric. The embroidery uses Tilla threads—malleable copper layered with silver or gold—bound with cotton thread. Key tools include a special needle for puncturing designs, a duster for ink transfer, and a paperweight to secure the trace paper. Specialized needles thread and bind the Tilla, while irons are carefully used to finish the embroidery.
Process
The Tilla Dozi process starts with the Naqash (designer) sketching on trace paper and puncturing it in a step called Trombun. Using a mix of Jhelum River sand and kerosene, white and blue inks are applied to transfer the design onto fabric, known as Chaamp Traavun. A Tilla craftsman then embroiders the fabric with Tilla threads, binding them with cotton. The finished piece is washed and ironed to preserve its elegance and maintain the Tilla’s sheen.
Design and Color
Tilla Dozi products feature motifs rooted in Persian culture, with popular designs including Almond (Badam) and Rose (Gulab). Other common motifs are Narcissus (Yumberzal), Chinar leaf, Lotus (Pamposh), Vine (Dachh), Cypress (Sarav), and Gul-e-Noor Jahan—a flower favored by Noor Jehan. The embroidery also depicts calligraphy, valley fauna like ducks, deer, lions, and bulbuls, and human figures. Jangal Tarah (jungle scenes) and Shikargarh (hunting grounds) are particularly popular designs.
Product Range
Shawls, suits, cardigans, dresses, handbags and more.
Additional Information
