Tinsel Printing

Hand Block Printing

Rajasthan Textile

History

Khari, or chamki work, is a traditional fabric printing technique that uses gold, silver, or mica powder to create shimmering patterns on textiles. Once reserved for temple décor and sacred spaces using real metal dust, it has evolved to incorporate more affordable substitutes. Traditionally executed on cotton and silk, tinsel printing is now practiced on a wide range of textiles and even on paper, expanding its decorative and commercial possibilities.

Raw Materials and Tools

Raw Materials: Castor oil forms the base for the roghan gum paste used in Khari printing.

Tools: The technique employs brass blocks fitted into specialized sleeves along with wooden blocks, which help apply the thick paste and metallic powders precisely, creating raised and shimmering motifs on the surface of the fabric.

Process

Khari printing involves applying a thick roghan gum paste to the fabric using hand blocks with brass sleeves and wooden blocks. The paste is charged with gold or silver mica powder and transferred onto the cloth, forming motifs made up of fine dots and lines. The design stays on the surface, imitating the look of metal thread embroidery and giving a rich and luxurious finish. While this raised effect can make the fabric slightly stiff, it offers a cost-effective alternative to expensive embroidery, adding an ornate and decorative finish to textiles.

Design and Color

Khari printing is known for intricate designs created with clusters of dots and delicate lines. The wet roghan paste is dusted with gold or silver mica powder, which adheres to the surface and produces a shimmering metallic effect. Once dry, excess mica is gently removed and collected for reuse. This surface technique yields raised, luxurious embellishments that do not penetrate the fabric. Fine lines and tiny dots maintain flexibility, while large, dense motifs can make the textile stiffer and more sculptural.

Product Range

Khari printing features traditional motifs such as dots, lines, floral butis, khaja, keri, mor, and mogra. These designs are commonly used on ceremonial garments like kanchli, ghaghra, angarkha, and odhni. A special bridal chunri known as phavri or phamri is a significant part of Rajasthani weddings and festivals like Gangaur and Teej, often in red and highlighted by a central khaja motif executed in rich tinsel work.

Additional Information

Decorative border