Chatapati
Other Textiles Based Craft
History
Chaṭāpaṭī, an Awadhi textile craft, emerged in the royal courts of Awadh and was integral to garments like the ġarārā. After the British annexation of Awadh in 1856, artisans migrated to Rampur, preserving the craft despite political upheavals. During the Partition of India in 1947, artisans carried the tradition to Pakistan, where it flourished. Known for its geometric fabric patterns, Chaṭāpaṭī became a staple in wedding attire. While it remains vibrant in Pakistan, its presence in India has declined.
Raw Materials and Tools
Chaṭāpaṭī embroidery uses silk, cotton, or other textiles as the base fabric, with appliqué pieces crafted from contrasting or complementary fabrics. Essential tools include sharp scissors for precise cutting, cardboard stencils for uniformity, needles for hand stitching, and wooden frames to keep the fabric taut. These materials and tools enable artisans to create the intricate geometric designs that define Chaṭāpaṭī work, preserving its rich heritage and craftsmanship.
Process
Chatapati, also known as Ṭukṛī work, is a traditional embroidery technique from Uttar Pradesh, India. It involves meticulously stitching small fabric pieces onto a base material to create intricate patterns. Artisans use cardboard stencils to cut uniform shapes, which are then hand-sewn into geometric and floral designs. This labor-intensive craft requires precision and artistry, producing richly textured decorative patterns that showcase the region’s heritage and skilled craftsmanship.
Design and Color
Vibrant Chaṭāpaṭī outfits remain popular for wedding ceremonies like Mānjhā and Mehndī. This craft features geometric fabric pieces stitched together to create intricate patterns. There are two main variations: one uses strips of four or more colors arranged in diagonal, vertical, horizontal, or zigzag patterns; the other, known as ‘Ṭukr̤iyoñ kā kām,’ involves joining small triangular or diamond-shaped pieces. A favorite design among Awadhi women is the fish-scale pattern, Mahīpusht/Mahīypush.
Product Range
Chatapati embroidery is used to create a variety of decorative and functional textile products. The most common applications include garments like sarees, lehengas, and dupattas, where the intricate patchwork enhances their visual appeal.