Moirang Phee Weaving
Other Textiles Based Craft
History
Moirangphee, a traditional fabric of the Meitei women in Manipur, originated in Moirang village, Bishnupur district. Its signature moirang pheejin motif, inspired by the pronged teeth of the mythical Pythonic God Pakhangba, is woven along the border. Originally used in innaphee and phanek, it now appears in various garments. Though it began in Moirang, the craft is now widespread in Manipur and received GI status in 2014.
Raw Materials and Tools
Traditionally, cotton and silk yarns are used, though synthetic materials like acrylic and artificial silk are now common. Weaving is done on handlooms with no jacquard or dobby attachments. Essential tools include shuttles, warp beams, heddles, and reeds, ensuring precise interlocking of extra weft threads for the motif.
Process
Moirang Phee is woven on loin looms, throw-shuttle looms, and fly-shuttle looms using the extra weft technique. Two shuttles are used—one for the motif and one for the main body. The moirang pheejin motif is created by interlocking extra weft threads, forming a triangular pattern with odd-numbered steps (3, 5, 7, etc.). The motif’s weft threads are thicker and double-ply, enhancing the borders.
Design and Color
Moirang Phee features the moirang pheejin motif, a triangular pattern woven in odd-numbered steps (3, 5, 7, etc.), symbolizing Manipur’s mythical Pythonic God, Pakhangba. Traditionally, fabrics are woven in natural silk and cotton with colors like red, black, yellow, and green, often contrasting against lighter backgrounds.
Product Range
Moirang Phee is traditionally used for innaphee (shawls) and phanek (sarongs) but is now incorporated into dhotis, saris, skirts, and school uniforms. The intricate motif makes it a preferred fabric for weddings, festivals, and everyday wear, blending tradition with contemporary fashion.