Muga Silk
Other Textiles Based Craft
History
Muga silk, native to ancient Kamrupa (Assam), is known for its durability, fine quality, and golden hue. Mentioned in Arthashastra (4th century BCE), it flourished under the Ahom dynasty (1228–1826), becoming a royal fabric. It received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2007. Though niche, its sheen and exclusivity maintain global appeal.
Raw Materials and Tools
Muga silk yarn, banana seed alkali, and natural dyes are used. Tools include spindles, spinning machines, warp drums, pegs, and jacquard-equipped looms.
Process
Muga silk production begins with degumming the fiber using alkali from banana seeds. The silk is then hand-reeled, wound, warped, and woven. Designs are first drawn on graph paper, followed by jacquard card punching for intricate motifs. Weaving is done on throw shuttle looms, while fly-shuttle looms are used commercially.
Design and Color
Traditional Assamese motifs in Muga saris include gosha, a geometric tree with two birds from the Mishing tribe, and jambiliathon, depicting five birds on a tree representing the five Karbi clans. Zoomorphic designs feature mourah (peacock), pokhila (butterfly), gor (rhino), and xen (eagle). Other motifs include lokaparo (pigeon pair), joonbiri (crescent moon), gumkharu (bracelet), jaapi (bamboo hat), and dhol (Assamese drum).
Product Range
Various products made out of muga silk are muga saris, mekhela chador, jainsem, dhara, dress materials, furnishing materials, kimonos, umbrellas, etc.